The limitation of car supply voltage (12V) forces to convert the voltages to higher in order to power audio amplifiers.
In fact the max audio power x speaker (with 4 ohm impedance) using 12V is (Vsupply+ - Vsupply-)^2/(8*impedance) 12^2/32 = 4.5Watts per channel, that is laughable...
For powering correctly an amplifier the best is to use a symmetric supply with a high voltage differential. for example +20 - -20 = 40Volts
in fact
40^2/32 = 50 Watts per channel that is respectable.
This supply is intended for two channels with 50W max each (of course it depends on the amplifier used). Though it can be easily scaled up or the voltages changed to obtain different values.
Overview - How it works
It is a classic push-pull design , taking care to obtain best symmetry (to avoid flux walking). Keep in mind that this circuit will adsorb many amperes (around 10A) so take care to reinforce power tracks with lots of solder and use heavy wires from the battery or the voltage will drop too much at the input.
The transformer must be designed to reduce skin effect, it can be done using several insulated magnet wire single wires soldered together but conducting separately. The regulation is done both by the transformer turn ratio and varying the duty cycle. In my case i used 5+5 , 10+10 turns obtaining a step up ratio of 2 (12->24) and downregulating the voltage to 20 via duty cycle dynamic adjust performed by the PWM controller TL494.
The step-up ratio has to be a little higher to overcome diode losses, winding resistance and so on and input voltage drop due to wire resistance from battery to converter.
Transformer design
The transformer must be of correct size in order to carry the power needed, on the net there are many charts showing the power in function of frequency and core size for a given topology. My transformer size is 33.5 mm lenght, 30.0 height and 13mm width with a cross section area of 1,25cm^2, good for powers around 150W at 50khz.
The windings , especially the primary must be heavy gauged, but instead of using a single wire it is better to use
multiple wires in parallel each insulated from the other except at the ends. This will reduce resistance increase due to skin effect. The primary and secondary windings are centertapped, this means that you have to wind 5 turns, centertap and 5 windings again. The same goes for the secondary, 10 turns, centertap and 10 turns again.
The important thing is that the transformer MUST not have air gaps or the leakage inductance will throw spikes on the switches overheating them and giving a voltage higher than expected by turn ratio prediction, so if your voltage output (at fully duty cycle) is higher than Vin*N2/N1 - Vdrop diode, your transformer has gap (of course permit me saying you that you are BLIND if you miss it), and this is accompanied with a drastical efficiency reduction. Use non-gapped E cores or toroids (ferrite).
Output diodes, capacitors and filter inductor
For rectification i preferred to use shottky diodes since they have low forward voltage drop, and are incredibly fast.
I used the cheap 1N5822, the best alternative for low voltage converters (3A for current capability).
The output capacitors are 4700uF 25V, not very big, since at high frequency the voltage ripple is most due to internal cap ESR fortunately general purpose lytics have enough low esr for a small ripple (some tens of millivolts). Also at high duty cycle they are feed almost with pure DC, giving small ripple. The filter inductor on the secondary centertap furter increases the ripple and helps the regulation in asymmetrical transients
Power switch and driving
I used d2pak 70V 80A 0.004 ohms ultrafets (Fairchind semiconductor), very expensive and hard to find. In principle any fet will work, but the lower the on-resistance, the lower the on-state conduction losses, the lower the heat produced on the fets, the higher efficiency and smaller the heatsinks needed. With this fets i am able to run the fets with small heatsinks and without fan at full rated power (100W) with an efficiency of 82% and perceptible heating and with small heating at 120W (some degrees) (the core starts to saturate and the efficiency is a bit lower, around 75%)
Try to use the lowest resistance mosfet you can put your dirty hand :-) on or the efficiency will be lower than rated and you will need even a small fan. The fet driver i used is the TPS2811P, from Texas instruments, rated for 2A peak and 200ns. Is important that the gate drive is optimized for minimal inductance or the switching losses will be higher and you risk noise coupling from other sources. Personally i think that twisted pair wires (gate and ground/source) are the best to keep the inductance small. Place the gate drive resistor near the Mosfet, not near the IC.
Controller
I used the trusty TL494 PWM controller with frequency set at around 40-60 Khz adjustable with a potentiometer. I also implemented the soft start (to reduce powerup transients). The adjust potentiometer (feedback) must be set to obtain the desired voltage. The output signals is designed with two pull-up resistors on the collector of the PWM chip output transistor pulling them to ground each cycle alternatively. This signal is sent to the dual inverting MOSFET driver (TPS2811P) obtaining the correct waveform.
Power and filtering
How i said before the power tracks must be heavy gauged or you will scarify regulation (since it depends of transformer step up ratio and input voltage) and efficiency too. Dont forget to place a 10A (or 15A) fuse on the input because the car batteries can supply very high currents in case of shorts and this will save you face from a mosfet explosion in case of failture or short, remember to place a fuse also on the battery side to increase the safety (accidental shorts->fire, battery explosion, firemen, police and lawyers around). Input filtering is important, use at least 20000uF 16V in capacitors, a filter inductor would be useful too (heavygauged) but i decided to leave it..
Final considerations
This supply given me up to 85% efficiency (sometimes even 90% at some loads) with an input of 12V because i observed all these tricks to keep it functional and efficient. An o-scope would be useful, to watch the ripple and gate signals (watching for overshoots), but if you follow these guidelines you will avoid these problems.
The cross regulation is good but keep in mind that only the positive output is fully regulated, and the negative only follows it. Place a small load between the negative rail and ground (a 3mm led with a 4.7Kohm resistor) to avoid the negative rail getting lower then -20V. If the load is asymmetric you can have two cases:
-More load on positive rail-> no problems, the negative rail can go lower than -20V, but it is not a real issue for an audio amplifier.
-More load on negative rail-> voltage drop on negative rail (to ground) especially if the load is only on the negative rail.
Fortunately audio amplifiers are quite symmetrical as a load, and the output filter inductor/capacitors helps to maintain the regulation good during asymmetrical transients (Basses)
FOR FIRST TESTING USE A SMALL 12V power supply and use resistors as load monitoring switches heat and current consumption (and output) and try to determine efficiency, if it is higher then 70-75% you are set, it is enough. Adjust the frequency for best compromise between power and switching losses, skin effect and hysteresis losses
Bill Of Materials
=================
Design: 12V to 20V 100W DC-DC conv
Doc. no.: 1
Revision: 3
Author: Jonathan Filippi
Created: 29/04/05
Modified: 18/05/05
Parts
2 R1,R2 = 10
4 R3,R4,R6,R7 = 1k
1 R5 = 22k
1 R8 = 4.7k
1 R9 = 100k
2 C1,C2 = 10000uF
2 C3,C6 = 47u
1 C4 = 10u
3 C5,C7,C14 = 100n
2 C8,C9 = 4700u
1 C12 = 1n
1 C13 = 2.2u
1 U1 = TL494
1 U2 = TPS2811P
2 Q1,Q2 = FDB045AN
4 D1-D4 = 1N5822
1 D5 = 1N4148
1 FU1 = 10A
1 L1 = 10u
1 L2 = FERRITE BEAD
1 RV1 = 2.2k
1 RV2 = 24k
1 T1 = TRAN-3P3S
R1_____________270R 1/4W Resistor
R2_____________100K 1/4W Resistor
R3_______________2K2 1/4W Resistor
R4______________39K 1/4W Resistor
R5_______________3K9 1/4W Resistor
R6_____________390K 1/4W Resistor
R7______________33K 1/4W Resistor
R8______________75K 1/4W Resistor (or two 150K resistors wired in parallel)
R9_____________560R 1/4W Resistor
C1_____________220pF 63V Polystyrene or Ceramic Capacitor
C2_______________1µF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C3______________47µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C4______________10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor 5% tolerance or better
C5_______________1nF 63V Polyester Capacitor 5% tolerance or better
C6,C9__________100nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C7,C10__________22µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C8,C11________2200µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
IC1___________LM833 or NE5532 Low noise Dual Op-amp
IC2___________TL072 Dual BIFET Op-Amp
IC3___________78L15 15V 100mA Positive Regulator IC
IC4___________79L15 15V 100mA Negative Regulator IC
D1,D2________1N4002 200V 1A Diodes
J1,J2___________RCA audio input sockets
J3______________Mini DC Power Socket
Any electronics amateur still in possess of a collection of vinyl recordings and aiming at a high quality reproduction should build this preamp and add it to the Modular Preamplifier chain.
This circuit features a very high input overload capability, very low distortion and accurate reproduction of the RIAA equalization curve, thanks to a two-stage op-amp circuitry in which the RIAA equalization network was split in two halves: an input stage (IC1A) wired in a series feedback configuration, implementing the bass-boost part of the RIAA equalization curve and a second stage, implementing the treble-cut part of the curve by means of a second op-amp (IC2A) wired in the shunt feedback configuration.
This module comprises also an independent dual rail power supply identical to that described in the Modular Preamplifier Control Center.
As with the other modules of this series, each electronic board can be fitted into a standard enclosure: Hammond extruded aluminum cases are well suited to host the boards of this preamp. In particular, the cases sized 16 x 10.3 x 5.3 cm or 22 x 10.3 x 5.3 cm have a very good look when stacked. See below an example of the possible arrangement of the rear panel of this module.
Sensitivity @ 1KHz: 4.3mV RMS input for 200mV RMS output
Max. input voltage @ 100Hz: 53mV RMS
Max. input voltage @ 1KHz: 212mV RMS
Max. input voltage @ 10KHz: 477mV RMS
Frequency response @ 200mV RMS output: flat from 30Hz to 23KHz; -0.5dB @ 20Hz
Total harmonic distortion @ 1KHz and up to 8.8V RMS output: 0.0028%
Total harmonic distortion @10KHz and up to 4.4V RMS output: 0.008%
Circuit diagrams
The limitation of car supply voltage (12V) forces to convert the voltages to higher in order to power audio amplifiers.
In fact the max audio power x speaker (with 4 ohm impedance) using 12V is (Vsupply+ - Vsupply-)^2/(8*impedance) 12^2/32 = 4.5Watts per channel, that is laughable...
For powering correctly an amplifier the best is to use a symmetric supply with a high voltage differential. for example +20 - -20 = 40Volts
in fact
40^2/32 = 50 Watts per channel that is respectable.
This supply is intended for two channels with 50W max each (of course it depends on the amplifier used). Though it can be easily scaled up or the voltages changed to obtain different values.
Overview - How it works
It is a classic push-pull design , taking care to obtain best symmetry (to avoid flux walking). Keep in mind that this circuit will adsorb many amperes (around 10A) so take care to reinforce power tracks with lots of solder and use heavy wires from the battery or the voltage will drop too much at the input.
The transformer must be designed to reduce skin effect, it can be done using several insulated magnet wire single wires soldered together but conducting separately. The regulation is done both by the transformer turn ratio and varying the duty cycle. In my case i used 5+5 , 10+10 turns obtaining a step up ratio of 2 (12->24) and downregulating the voltage to 20 via duty cycle dynamic adjust performed by the PWM controller TL494.
The step-up ratio has to be a little higher to overcome diode losses, winding resistance and so on and input voltage drop due to wire resistance from battery to converter.
Transformer design
The transformer must be of correct size in order to carry the power needed, on the net there are many charts showing the power in function of frequency and core size for a given topology. My transformer size is 33.5 mm lenght, 30.0 height and 13mm width with a cross section area of 1,25cm^2, good for powers around 150W at 50khz.
The windings , especially the primary must be heavy gauged, but instead of using a single wire it is better to use
multiple wires in parallel each insulated from the other except at the ends. This will reduce resistance increase due to skin effect. The primary and secondary windings are centertapped, this means that you have to wind 5 turns, centertap and 5 windings again. The same goes for the secondary, 10 turns, centertap and 10 turns again.
The important thing is that the transformer MUST not have air gaps or the leakage inductance will throw spikes on the switches overheating them and giving a voltage higher than expected by turn ratio prediction, so if your voltage output (at fully duty cycle) is higher than Vin*N2/N1 - Vdrop diode, your transformer has gap (of course permit me saying you that you are BLIND if you miss it), and this is accompanied with a drastical efficiency reduction. Use non-gapped E cores or toroids (ferrite).
Output diodes, capacitors and filter inductor
For rectification i preferred to use shottky diodes since they have low forward voltage drop, and are incredibly fast.
I used the cheap 1N5822, the best alternative for low voltage converters (3A for current capability).
The output capacitors are 4700uF 25V, not very big, since at high frequency the voltage ripple is most due to internal cap ESR fortunately general purpose lytics have enough low esr for a small ripple (some tens of millivolts). Also at high duty cycle they are feed almost with pure DC, giving small ripple. The filter inductor on the secondary centertap furter increases the ripple and helps the regulation in asymmetrical transients
Power switch and driving
I used d2pak 70V 80A 0.004 ohms ultrafets (Fairchind semiconductor), very expensive and hard to find. In principle any fet will work, but the lower the on-resistance, the lower the on-state conduction losses, the lower the heat produced on the fets, the higher efficiency and smaller the heatsinks needed. With this fets i am able to run the fets with small heatsinks and without fan at full rated power (100W) with an efficiency of 82% and perceptible heating and with small heating at 120W (some degrees) (the core starts to saturate and the efficiency is a bit lower, around 75%)
Try to use the lowest resistance mosfet you can put your dirty hand :-) on or the efficiency will be lower than rated and you will need even a small fan. The fet driver i used is the TPS2811P, from Texas instruments, rated for 2A peak and 200ns. Is important that the gate drive is optimized for minimal inductance or the switching losses will be higher and you risk noise coupling from other sources. Personally i think that twisted pair wires (gate and ground/source) are the best to keep the inductance small. Place the gate drive resistor near the Mosfet, not near the IC.
Controller
I used the trusty TL494 PWM controller with frequency set at around 40-60 Khz adjustable with a potentiometer. I also implemented the soft start (to reduce powerup transients). The adjust potentiometer (feedback) must be set to obtain the desired voltage. The output signals is designed with two pull-up resistors on the collector of the PWM chip output transistor pulling them to ground each cycle alternatively. This signal is sent to the dual inverting MOSFET driver (TPS2811P) obtaining the correct waveform.
Power and filtering
How i said before the power tracks must be heavy gauged or you will scarify regulation (since it depends of transformer step up ratio and input voltage) and efficiency too. Dont forget to place a 10A (or 15A) fuse on the input because the car batteries can supply very high currents in case of shorts and this will save you face from a mosfet explosion in case of failture or short, remember to place a fuse also on the battery side to increase the safety (accidental shorts->fire, battery explosion, firemen, police and lawyers around). Input filtering is important, use at least 20000uF 16V in capacitors, a filter inductor would be useful too (heavygauged) but i decided to leave it..
Final considerations
This supply given me up to 85% efficiency (sometimes even 90% at some loads) with an input of 12V because i observed all these tricks to keep it functional and efficient. An o-scope would be useful, to watch the ripple and gate signals (watching for overshoots), but if you follow these guidelines you will avoid these problems.
The cross regulation is good but keep in mind that only the positive output is fully regulated, and the negative only follows it. Place a small load between the negative rail and ground (a 3mm led with a 4.7Kohm resistor) to avoid the negative rail getting lower then -20V. If the load is asymmetric you can have two cases:
-More load on positive rail-> no problems, the negative rail can go lower than -20V, but it is not a real issue for an audio amplifier.
-More load on negative rail-> voltage drop on negative rail (to ground) especially if the load is only on the negative rail.
Fortunately audio amplifiers are quite symmetrical as a load, and the output filter inductor/capacitors helps to maintain the regulation good during asymmetrical transients (Basses)
FOR FIRST TESTING USE A SMALL 12V power supply and use resistors as load monitoring switches heat and current consumption (and output) and try to determine efficiency, if it is higher then 70-75% you are set, it is enough. Adjust the frequency for best compromise between power and switching losses, skin effect and hysteresis losses
Bill Of Materials
=================
Design: 12V to 20V 100W DC-DC conv
Doc. no.: 1
Revision: 3
Author: Jonathan Filippi
Created: 29/04/05
Modified: 18/05/05
Parts
2 R1,R2 = 10
4 R3,R4,R6,R7 = 1k
1 R5 = 22k
1 R8 = 4.7k
1 R9 = 100k
2 C1,C2 = 10000uF
2 C3,C6 = 47u
1 C4 = 10u
3 C5,C7,C14 = 100n
2 C8,C9 = 4700u
1 C12 = 1n
1 C13 = 2.2u
1 U1 = TL494
1 U2 = TPS2811P
2 Q1,Q2 = FDB045AN
4 D1-D4 = 1N5822
1 D5 = 1N4148
1 FU1 = 10A
1 L1 = 10u
1 L2 = FERRITE BEAD
1 RV1 = 2.2k
1 RV2 = 24k
1 T1 = TRAN-3P3S
A number of people have been unable to find the transformer needed for the Black Light project, so I looked around to see if I could find a fluorescent lamp driver that does not require any special components. I finally found one in Electronics Now. Here it is. It uses a normal 120 to 6V stepdown transformer in reverse to step 12V to about 350V to drive a lamp without the need to warm the filaments.
Circuit diagram
Parts:
C1 100uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C2,C3 0.01uf 25V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C4 0.01uf 1KV Ceramic Disc Capacitor
R1 1K 1/4W Resistor
R2 2.7K 1/4W Resistor
Q1 IRF510 MOSFET
U1 TLC555 Timer IC
T1 6V 300mA Transformer
LAMP 4W Fluorescent Lamp
MISC Board, Wire, Heatsink For Q1
Notes:
1. Q1 must be installed on a heat sink.
2. A 240V to 10V transformer will work better then the one in the parts list. The problem is that they are hard to find.
3. This circuit can give a nasty (but not too dangerous) shock. Be careful around the output leads.
Using this circuit you can convert the 12V dc in to the 220V Ac. In this circuit 4047 is use to generate the square wave of 50hz and amplify the current and then amplify the voltage by using the step transformer.
Circuit diagram
author: Ashad Mustufa
e-mail: mustufa66@hotmail.com
web site: http://www.electronics-lab.com
How to calculate transformer rating
The basic formula is P=VI and between input output of the transformer we have Power input = Power output
For example if we want a 220W output at 220V then we need 1A at the output. Then at the input we must have at least 18.3V at 12V because: 12V*18.3 = 220v*1
So you have to wind the step up transformer 12v to 220v but input winding must be capable to bear 20A.
A common problem with small torches is the short life-span both of the batteries and the bulb. The average incandescent torch, for instance, consumes around 2 Watts. The LED Torch in Fig. 1 consumes just 24 mW, giving it more than 80 times longer service from 4 AA alkaline batteries (that is, up to one months continuous service). Although the torchs light output is modest, it is nonetheless quite sufficient to illuminate a pathway for walking.
Circuit Diagram :
Fig. 1 : Simple LED Torch Circuit Diagram
The LED Torch is based on a 7555 timer running in astable mode (do not use an ordinary 555). A white LED (Maplin order code NR73) produces 400 mcd light output, which, when focussed, can illuminate objects at 30 metres. Try Conrad Electronic for what appears to be a stronger white LED (order code 15 37 45-11). A convex lens with short focal length is placed in front of the LED to focus the beam. If banding occurs at the beams perimeter, use another very short focal length lens directly in front of the LED to smooth the beam.
If a different supply voltage is preferred, the value of resistor R3 is modified as follows:
9V - 470 OhmSee my "Wind-up Torch" feature article in the October 2000 edition of Everyday Practical Electronics for a completely battery-free go-everywhere torch.
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| TDA1566 Audio Amplifier 2x46W |
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| TDA1566 Audio Amplifier 2x46W |
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| TDA1566 Audio Amplifier 2x46W layout |
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| TDA1566 Audio Amplifier 2x46W pcb |
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| TDA1566 Audio Amplifier 2x46WTDA1566 Audio Amplifier 2x46W pcb |
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| TDA1566 Audio Amplifier 2x46W pcb |
TDA1009 circuit amplifier , this circuit is stereo amplifier and simple schematic .Minimum voltage require 9V and maximum voltage 24V. To avoid damaged IC please use supply voltage 12 volt and must be filtering voltage. Power output 2 X 18 W with impedance 4 Ohm.See circuit schematic and troubleshooting amplifier :
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| Click to view larger |
The schema has been designed for a person who loves to jog or walk while measuring the distance that have been covered during the activity.
The whole schema may be placed in a small box and be placed in pants’ pocket where the 7-segment digital display shows the most significant digit D2 in the leftmost portion where it shows the 0 to 9 Km digits. The dot in between is always ON to segregate KM form hm. The least significant digit D1 is displayed at the rightmost part where it illustrates hundreds of meters and the dot is illuminating after every 50 meters of walking. In every two steps, a beeper will signal each count of unit, although it is not included in this schema.
Circuit diagram :
Digital Counter with an Interval of Kilometers Circuit Diagram
A length of 78 centimeters is the calculated measure of a normal step which causes the LED to illuminate after 64 steps to signal a 50 meter distance. For a mercury switch, the illumination occurs every 32 steps. After 128 steps, the display will indicate 100 meters and so on. The SPST push button switch P2 is pressed only upon request in case of low battery consumption. Both push button switches P1 & P2 should be pressed together to reset the schema in order to prevent accidental reset of the counters. The schema should be considered as an approximation and not as a precision meter because it is very difficult to obtain the correct position of the mercury switch SW1 in the box where the degree of slope is being set.
The excessive bouncing of mercury switch is provided with certain degree of tolerance from the monostable multivibrator consisting of IC1A & IC1B. IC2 therefore is divided by 64 as a clean square pulse enters. The LED dot segment of D1 is driven by Q2 for every 32 pulses counted by IC2. At each monostable count, an audio frequency square is generated by IC1C for a short time. Using SW2 will disable the beep while the piezo sounder is driven by Q1. The power of beeper sound can be adjusted by trimming the value of R6. SW3 can be omitted when the display is disabled resulting to negligible current consumption.
The digital step counter schema is widely used by people as their motion monitor while walking or jogging and other most ideal exercise possible. Some designs may come with a digital clock and backlight for easy reading during running, and belt clips.
Power supply circuit has a first amplifier using op-amp is IC uA741. Op amp circuit that is used only one, but it also features an adjustable voltage, which is steered by a trimpot resistors. Rtrim will set the input to the IC input on pin 2, so that if the detainee on Rtrim which will be channeled into ic enlarges the output voltage will be small, and otherwise. After the voltage is boosted and filtered and then the voltage will be regulated and boosted again by a NPN transistor.
| Output voltage 0.5V - 35V |
